By Alicia Cuadra

During the fermentation of still wine , carbon dioxide is released from the fermenting liquid into the air . If it is prevented from escaping , however , it will remain dissolved in the wine until it is exposed to oxygen again . This is , in essence , how sparkling wines get their bubbles . This can be achieved primarily in two ways ; in the bottle , called the Traditional Method or Methode Traditionelle ; or in a tank , called Charmat or Tank method .

For the Traditional Method , after the wine has undergone fermentation , it is put into bottles . Before being sealed with a crown cap , a small amount of sugar , yeast , and nutrients called “ Liquer di Tirage ” is put into each bottle .

The bottles are then stored with the necks facing down , and over time and with a bit of human intervention to help move the sediment , the yeasts will settle into the top of the bottle . The amount of time the wine is left this way , in contact with the lees , or spent yeast , depends on the producer and region of origin . Generally six months to three years , but aging “ Sur Lie ” can go for much longer .

When the time is right , the wine is then “ disgorged ,” and the sediment from the yeast is removed . This is done by putting the neck of the bottle into a sort of freeze bath and popping the cap to allow the sediment to come out . The bottle is then filled with a small amount of wine , and immediately re-sealed with

the champagne corks with which we are so familiar .

The difference between this and the Tank Method : in the Tank Method the second fermentation occurs in a large tank all at one time , and is then bottled . As opposed to fermenting each bottle individually , this method is much less time consuming and can produce some great wines such as Prosecco .

The Traditional Method has been used for centuries in Champagne , France , where it is called the Methode Champenoise . Made mostly from Pinot Noir , Pinot Meuiner , and Chardonnay ; these wines have a history , dating back to the 17th century . With the popularity of Champagne and the rise of California Wines in the 1960s and 1970s , it ’ s no wonder many American producers started making wines in this method and labeling them “ Champagne .”

However , Champagne is truly a protected name to be used only for wines from the Champagne region of France , and a labeling law in 2005 clarified this for consumers . No longer were new producers of California sparkling wines allowed to call their products “ Champagne .” The caveat to this law was that producers that had indeed been making these wines and labeling them “ Champagne ” before the law was enacted could continue to use the term “ California Champagne .” Guglielmo Winery in Morgan Hill is an example . Since they had been making Champagne-style wines decades before the laws changed , they could continue to produce California Champagne .

Guglielmo routinely offers its “ Emile ’ s California Champagne ,” and my favorite “ Emile ’ s Grand Cuvee ,” both multivintage blends of unique grapes that are consistently delicious . Most sparkling wines are made with wine from multiple years , to help keep them consistent . Only in exceptional years is this style of wine made with a vintage date , indicating the year of harvest . Guglielmo recently released a single vintage sparkling made from 100 % Chardonnay grapes , and their 2000 Methode Champenoise is a great example of what aged vintage sparkling wine can be ; savory bruised pear with a nutty and almost sherry-like oxidation . The wine is smooth and complex , and evolves in the glass .

Sarah ’ s Vineyard in Gilroy also recently released a Sparkling wine , made in the Methode Champenois . The grapes here are the three traditionally seen in Champagne , and are a multi-vintage blend . This wine is at the other end of the spectrum ; crisp with more fresh and tart citrus and stone fruit characteristics . There are still elements of toast and minerality , and the wine is refreshing and great with oysters . These two sparkling wines are great examples of the opposite sides of the Champagne spectrum .

I recommend using a regular wine glass to really appreciate the aromatic complexities and flavors of Traditional Method wines , but flutes are fun too . I also recommend that everybody drink more sparkling wines overall . Cheers .

Alicia Cuadra is a Wine Educator and Consultant in the Monterey Bay . She is a certified Sommelier , Certified Specialist of Wine and Italian Wine Professional . Follow her blog at AliciaSeesWine . com and on social media @ AliciaSeesWine .

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GILROY • MORGAN HILL • SAN MARTIN MARCH / APRIL 2017 gmhtoday . com